Designing a garden bonsai begins with the right choice of tree species. Decide in advance whether you want a tall or short tree, a single trunk or a branchy bush. It is better for the plant to be:
- with slow growth;
- good reproducibility of shoots;
- c with small leaves - then it looks neater, especially if you plant a seedling in a limited space.
It is advisable to choose a young plant, common pine is more plastic, has flexible branches, adapts more easily. Primary formation takes 3-7 years and in the future the tree will require annual adjustment. The copy purchased in the nursery is subjected to primary pruning of the excess crown, so it is necessary to immediately determine which branches to leave and which to remove.
Examining the escape from all sides, bending or covering presumably extra branches, we determine what is to be pruned. In the first year, it is better to cut no more than a third, and the rest of the adjustment should be stretched over several subsequent years. If too much is cut off at once, the tree may respond with intensive growth of leaves and branches, because there is a direct connection between the crown and the roots. Recommendation: start removing unnecessary branches from the bottom, and with small branches.
We form the desired image
The next stage is the bookmarking of the niwaki form. For this, some branches must be bent or turned in a given direction. To change the direction of growth, they are tied to nearby strong branches, to supports in the form of bamboo stems, lattices, pegs in the ground. Weights are used to give a horizontal position or bend the escape to the ground. Here you need to be careful not to exceed the strength limit of the branches. Practice on already cut branches.
Next, the tips of the branches are formed - by pinching or with a sharp secateur. It is important to understand that small and young leaves respond more easily to pruning. This especially applies to conifers that respond to this procedure of darkening of conifer sections, for example, blue Kebab spiny spruce.
The primary cut is made no later than the beginning of summer, by mid-June. In the future, different breeds may need from one to three cuttings, but the last d.b.n. carried out no later than mid-August, otherwise the tree will not have time to form new buds. It is important to take this point into account for breeds that provide for flowering. As for fertilizers, you need to feed regularly, but the main thing is not to overfeed, especially with nitrogen compounds, otherwise you will be guaranteed rapid growth of the plant.